Westinghouse Bj505s R Manual Data

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  • Westinghouse Bj505s-R Manual. Question About Westinghouse BJ505S-R Please help find the manual for this Westinghouse Upside down Fridge/Freezer.

19 thoughts on “Westinghouse RJ422V is not cold. Hi,I have a Westinghouse fridge model rj523v-r#6 the alarm sounds approx.every 6 hours.

. 43501 Answers SOURCE: Hi, From what you are describing, you have a refrigerant leak. The freon has leaked from the system, The compressor will still run and evrything looks fine. To double check you will have to have someone hookup gauges to the system and verify that the charge is lost.

It may be possible to find and repair the leak. This is not always possible as some of the system is virtually inaccessible in many refrigerators. Make sure if you do have someone repair the system that they evacuate the system very well and do a good vacum test before recharging the system. This should help you to solve your problem. Thanks for using Fixya!!

Heatman101 Posted on Nov 24, 2009. 6784 Answers SOURCE: HI, you will need to inspect the compressor to make sure it is cycling in intervals.

If the compressor is not cycling, this will confirm compressor failure. The evaporator fan blows cold air into the freezer and from there it vents into the refrigerator. Occasionally the vents between the freezer and refrigerator can become clogged with ice, food or other debris. In most refrigerators the cold control for the refrigerator opens and closes these vents. That mechanism may become inoperative resulting in the vents becoming stuck open or closed.

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Inspect the vents to determine what is preventing the free flow of air. An overcrowded refrigerator or freezer may be the cause. In other cases the vents may need to be cleaned or ice melted away. To remove a build up of ice, use a hair dryer set to 'low'. Using a higher setting may damage the freezer.

WARNING: Do not let melting ice drip onto the hair dryer. In some models, the vent is located under the temperature control console. The housing either snaps into place or is held in place with screws. Remove the screws, or gently depress the retaining clips with a small screwdriver. Allow the housing to hang by its wiring. A freezer vent control may also have to be removed to access the vent. In some freezer-on-top models, it may be necessary to remove the floor of the freezer to inspect for obstructions.

The condenser coils dissipate heat. If dust and debris accumulate around the coils, your refrigerator may not be able to cool properly, it may run continuously or it may stop completely as a result of an overheated compressor. You should clean rear-mounted coils once a year. Unplug the refrigerator before cleaning. Refrigerators are heavy, never tip one forward or backward. Never attempt to move a refrigerator without an assistant.

Vacuum or brush the coils. If coils have a filmy build-up, use warm soapy water to clean them. Take care not to spill or drip water onto the components of the refrigerator.You should clean floor level coils at least twice a year.

Unplug the refrigerator before cleaning. Vacuum or brush the coils. Remove the grill from the front of the refrigerator and use a vacuum with a wand attachment to remove any dust and debris. The grill should snap off and on.

Pull firmly toward you and possibly upward to remove the grill. If it does not come off with a modest effort, check for screws or retaining clips that may hold it in place. Another inspection point will be the door seals. This is a easy way for the cold air to escape from your unit as well. This will cause the temperature to rise. The seal should make smooth continuous contact with the refrigerator case. When the seal does not seal completely, warm air enters the appliance.

This results in more frequently compressor operation and possibly the inability of the appliance to maintain proper temperature. To test the seal, use the dollar bill test.

Place a a dollar bill or a piece of paper between the seal and the refrigerator and close the door. Now pull the paper out. You should feel tension as you pull. Retest along the entire door seal. Replace the seal if the test was unsuccessful. Next will be the door switch.

Manual

The interior light in most refrigerators, and the fan in some, are controlled by a door switch. When the door is closed, the switch is depressed and the interior light goes off and the fan resumes normal operation. If the door is misaligned or the switch malfunctions, the refrigerator may become warm as a result of the non-operation of the evaporator fan and the heat generated by the interior light. Test the switch for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should change from a reading of infinity to zero when the probes touch the terminals.

With the probes still touching the terminals depress the switch, the reading should change back to infinity. If it does not pass both of these tests, the switch should be replaced. Be sure to confirm evaporator fan function as well. If the fan is defective, it will prevent proper cooling as well. This will conclude the most common issue with a under preforming unit. I would advise to check all the above and, if the unit continues to not cool after all the above adjustments are made, I will recommend replacing the cold control device, and thermostat.

Posted on Dec 26, 2009. Very simple solution there is a drain cup usually in the fridge at the top by the lights or on the back wall make sure it isnt plugged. Now the other thing you will need to do if that cup isnt plugged is pull the fridge out from the wall there will be a black or white tube running down your fridge to a tray or a dish on top of the compressor that is your drain it runs over the compressor so the heat can evapourate any water make sure its not plugged and water can run out of the tube. If you go inside the fridge and that drain cup is covered in ice then u have a defrost problem will need a technician to replace either the defrost timer or heating element or your thermastat good luck Oct 02, 2013. Hello, Most times this is a bad cold control, but there are other things to check for.

Make sure the condenser fan is working and the coils are not covered with dust. A separated heat exchanger ( small capillary tubing soldered to the large suction line ) can separate from one another and make the fridge run too long. tape tubing back together. A poor working evaporator fan motor could also make the fridge run too long and freeze - replace the fan motor.

An inefficient compressor or refrigeration system could make the fridge run too long and freeze - have a service tech check this out. A misaligned control settings, make sure the air damper and cold control have not been bumped and are out of normal settings. Stuck open air diffusers or air dampers are becoming more and more common for allowing too much air to be blown into the fresh food section and freezing things. On all frost free fridge's the freezer temp air is blown into the fresh food section, if you have 'easy' to freeze items ( eggs, veggies in water, etc ) in front of or under where the freezer temp air comes out, they could freeze - store them in a different spot. Doors not closing properly making the fridge run too long is something else to check for. Also check the plastic air deflector at the top rear of the frig had been knocked off.

As you know, the deflector directs the freezer air toward the front of the frig and the rear of the cold control, Hoping this will help in solving the problem. Jul 07, 2011.

The coolling in a refrigerator occurs when the compressor forces freon thru the system and the expansion of gas in the coils of the freezer takes heat away thus cooling the fridge. If no cooling is happening then the compressor is not running, the freon is to low on the charge, or the small 'cap' line from the compressor to the cooling coils is blocked.

Unfortunately the compressor is the most expensive part of the refrigerator and if it has stopped this can be a expensive problem. There is a few other things that can make the compressor stop. There is an overheat protection device on the side of the compressor that once in a while opens up thus no electrical power to the compressor and no cooling. The other part that can fail is the cold control thermastat.

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If this opens up the fridge can't start the compressor because the open condition of the cold control never 'calls for cold'. The other simple thing that can stop the cooling is a totally frosted up coil condition. The air can't circulate around the coils so no cold gets to the inside of the fridge. Simple test step one unplug the fridge for 10 minutes then plug back in. Do you hear the motor in the bottom run? If it runs wait ten more minutes and put your hand into the freezer compartment. Do the sides feel cold?

If the motor (compressor) in the bottom runs but freezer doesn't get cold then the system is defective and there will be no easy fix. If the freezer does show cold then the problem could be with the 'evaporator' fan that circulates cold. This is an inexpensive part and can be replaced at a reasonable cost. Apr 22, 2011.

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